Thursday, April 4, 2024

ALASKA 2023 Part 1

 ALASKA 

June 2-23-2013

It took me 57 years to get here, but I finally made it.




                                                        Our basic route

In mid 2022, my friend and avid adventure motorcyclist, Curt, started putting together an epic ride through Alaska.  There were several people that Curt had ridden with on other adventures with all of the world who were interested.  Initially, I was planning to rent a motorcycle in Anchorage and join in on this ride, however, I began to question my experience, especially since a portion of the ride was going to be on the notoriously challenging Dalton Highway.

As it turned out, the group really needed a chase truck and so I quickly volunteered to take the helm of a 2023 Dodge Ran 2500 4X4.  I'm glad that I did because this ride challenged everyone with rain, wind, mud, dirt, dust and the infamous Alaskan mosquitoes.

As you can imagine, a trip like this takes a lot of organization and advanced planning.  Luckily, I was with a lot of folks who had done trips like this before and so I could learn from their experiences.

We had a very diverse group of riders and I'm proud to say that they're all now good friends of mine.

From left to right: Irene (Switzerland), Einar (Norway), Marnie (Wisconsin), Abigail (Canada), Curt (Reno), ME, Richard (Texas), Stephan (Switzerland), Chris (Boston) and Andrew (Australian living in Boston).


We all met up in Anchorage a day or two before the ride.  Some rode their bikes up from the lower 48, but most rented their bikes from Motoquest, which is a company they've rented from before.  Everything was now ready to go for a June 4th launch.


We all brought a bottle of something special to share and we met up in the hotel lobby for a little happy hour.





We nicknamed these bottles "The Senate."


This is just the beer section of the liquor store we went to.  Suffice it to say, we weren't going to have a problem keeping the ice chest full on this trip.


The night before we left, we ate an Italian restaurant that had the biggest selection of wine and spirits I've ever seen.




Anchorage to Talkeetna

We rode to Talkeetna, AK, which was one of the shorter riding days, but most of us had booked a ski plane ride that flew around Denali (Mt. McKinley 20,310 ft. alt.) and then would land on a glacier.  This was one of the highlights of the trip!


Talkeetna Air Taxi gave us an incredible experience.  We were very lucky because the weather here is so unpredictable, that they can only fly into the Denali area about 30% of the time.  On this day, the weather was perfect.



There was no co-pilot on this plane so Curt got to ride up front.


The plane was a 1958 De Havilland that held up to ten people.  The flight was so smooth and the views were spectacular. 



We landed on the Ruth Glacier, both to give us passengers the experience, but also to drop off a worker and supplies to a back country lodge known as The Sheldon Chalet.








This would be our runway for take off...


Okay, so I had to pee and we were only halfway into a 3+ hour tour, so I did what I had to do.  My apologies to the Gods of Denali, I hope you understand.



Stefan and Curt



Once airborne again, we flew over a camp of climbers that were in the process of ascending Denali.  When you're able to see their trek from a plane, you easily realize what a challenge they have before them.





And there he is...Denali himself, surrounded by his friends, all of which are very respectable mountains in their own right.









Soon after we landed back in Talkeetna, we found ourselves at the Denali Brewpub.  The Denali brewery itself is located off of the highway going in to Talkeetna and every beer I had of theirs was solid.  The food was good too.








We stayed at the Talkeetna Inn, which was a funky little joint comprised of two A-Frame buildings and a couple of rows of simple, but comfortable rooms.  The inn even has its own dive bar (behind me).




After dinner, a few of us diehards weren't quite ready to hit the sack, so we had a few cocktails in the courtyard of the inn.  Keep in mind, these pics were taken around 11:00 PM!





The following day, we went to the Denali National Park's visitor center.





Talkeetna to Chena Hot Springs
(2 nights here)


Chena Hot Springs Resort was a very nice place in a very remote area about an hour's drive west of Fairbanks.  Because it was the only place in the area, you can be sure that they gouged their customers every chance they got.  

Also, because they're the only game in town, the rooms weren't particularly nice and they were hot as hell.  The food was so-so at best and the service was horrible, but what are you going to do?








The Chena's bar (of course there's no bartender in sight).


We had our usual pre-dinner happy hour outside with all of the mosquitoes to keep us company.


When a mosquito would bite Einar, he would just say "enjoy your meal" and let them do their thing.


I felt so bad for this moose who stumbled into the parking lot near our picnic table.  She had a broken leg and could hardly walk.  We were told there's nothing anyone is allowed to do, so she limped off into the woods to die a horrible death.


The hot springs were HOT, but they felt fantastic.


These hoses shoot out water so that it can cool down a bit before entering the pool.











Of course Andrew had to have a nightly Negroni happy hour.



Chitina, AK


Our home for two nights.  Very nice, quaint and comfortable.


A simple little room, but nice, especially given that it was a cold day and the
wind was howling outside.



A simple little bar, but it had everything we were looking for.



A hungry, but very well-cocktailed table of guests.




Think wedding banquet as far as the food was concerned, but
it was great given where we were at and what we were doing.




Post dinner beers


Everywhere we went in Alaska, we found a great selection of beers.




All of this is a necessary evil of the modern traveler...





Around Chitna





On our second day in Chitna, we went to the old mining town of McCarthy, AK, which is technically in the Wrangell St. Elias National Park, which is the largest
national park in the U.S.



Irene, Einar, Marnie, Abigail, Curt, Me, Richard, Stephan, Chris and Andrew.



The Kennecott Mine site













The town of McCarthy, AK

So, I wanted to get Chris in this pic as he was walking by, but he thought he was in the way and made a "not very effective" gesture of ducking down.  He really just looks like he was drunk...







Dissolving back into the earth...




Back to Chitna


So, this bar has two names: The Mangey Moose and Uncle Tom's Tavern.
After speaking with the owner, apparently, he collects bar signs and just hangs them up, but officially, this bar is Uncle Tom's Tavern.





Marnie's flirting with the bar owner...😆




















Valdez


Of course we had to hit the brewery first.















Port of Valdez and eagles everywhere...MERICA!







Yes, Chris is a white boy indeed...








One of the weirdest little boats I've ever seen.





Fresh caught halibut


Okay sir!


Apparently, someone stole this guy's boat trailer...no problem...





Spotted this cool rig in town



Where the pipeline ends.




About to blast out of Valdez.







Whittier
(this town was a trip)


The Whittier Tunnel is the second longest tunnel in North America at 2.5 miles.  It's only wide enough to accommodate traffic in one direction at a time, so you have to wait as the directions change on every half hour, plus, there are train tracks that also run down the center of the tunnel.  An amazing experience.



Everyone in Whittier lives in this building, which is called the Begich Towers.  It's fourteen stories tall and has 150 apartments, including the rooms we stayed in.  It also houses the city offices, police dept., has a store, a laundry and other amenities that are needed for its residents.



As soon as we checked in, it was Negroni time!



The view from our rooms was amazing, even on this cloudy day.


This little place has some really good food.  It was all fried, but hell, that's what made it so tasty.





Seward














Homer


Negroni Time





The Homer Spit





The Salty Dawg Saloon - Homer










This Swede has to stick his tongue out to do the finer motor functions...








Hmmm





Went to an old Russian Settlement near Homer







Curt laid his bike down on a sharp switchback




The most westerly highway in America







Sheep Mountain Lodge







Even reflections in Alaska are beautiful





Sheep high up on a ridge behind the cabins





Miscellaneous pics along the way...

Delta Junction Brewery


Abigail must have picked up some reading material along the way...


One of many coffee stops


Just a another moose head in a pickup


This is what happens when you tell Curt NOT to do something...









Post Trip in Alaska before everyone went their separate ways.







This was nothing short of an epic trip.

From here, we traveled back to Anchorage, where most of the gang returned home.  However, three of us would continue on to Prudhoe Bay for another week of adventure (see the next blog post).

Ciao Alaska!  I'll be back soon.




Sunday, April 16, 2023

 The maiden voyage of the truck camper I built


After 9 months of laboring away on my post-retirement camper building project, I finally got it completed at the end of March, 2023. For its maiden voyage, I met up with friends in Pahrump, NV, Tecopa, CA and Goldfield, NV.  I also took a solo side trip for a couple of days through Death Valley National Park.

My rig performed flawlessly and I could not have been happier.


Beatty, NV


For the first night out in the new rig, I stayed at Bombo's Pond, which is a free camp area
just a few miles south of Beatty, NV.


Pahrump, NV


Sander's Winery in Pahrump is a cool little place with great indoor/outdoor seating and a nice,
fun vibe.  The wine's great too.

They allow free camping on the winery grounds.  There are no RV hookups, but it's hard to argue with free.




This outdoor space would fill up later that night with a live comedy show.




If the wine doesn't help your back, maybe this will.  Curt travels with this contraption.


Tecopa, CA

Death Valley Brewing Co.



I fit into the first and last category on this sign...


Death Valley Brewing's very modest brewery.  I'm guessing a 1 barrel system.



Death Valley Brewing's small fermenters.  The brewer told me that this table was salvaged from an old Chinese restaurant.  It was the wok station.


Right outside of Tecopa is the China Ranch date farm.  It was a really cool place and a beautiful littledrive into the valley where it's located.  Of course, we had to buy dates AND get one of theirfamous date milkshakes.




Out in the desert, near our campsite, we came across this cool art installation.  It really was beautiful.




Delight's Hot Spring Resort. Out of respect to all of the soakers here, I didn't take any photos ofthe people enjoying the hot tubs here, but Delight's is said to be the nicest hot spring in Tecopa andthis is an area with a lot of hot springs.

It was a nice place to soak after a really hard Sierra winter and after the last couple of days ofgale force winds that knowcked us around pretty good.  I for one, didn't wasmt to get out.



Steaks and Beer is a nice little restaurant and one of only three places to eat while in Tecopa.It has a reputation for having huge ribeye steaks.  We opted for something smaller and the Salisbury steaks were a great way to end the day.



This is Steaks and Beer's date bread with ice cream and date sauce.  It was deadly.


A campfire in the desert is always nice, but tonight we had a full moon to boot ANDthe wind had finally died down enough to enjoy sitting outside.  It was still cold because, after all, it April in the desert.




Death Valley National Park

After Tecopa, I wanted to do a couple of solo nights in Death Valley.  I have always wanted to go to the Racetrack (where the stones slide along a dried up lake bed), but it's in a very remote section of the park, so I've always put it off.  Not today.

I entered the park through its south entrance and meandered north, stopping at Furnace Creek to check out what was new at the visitor's center and to grab something to eat.

As one can expect in a national park, everything's overpriced.  After eating a $23 hamburger and topping off the tank with $7.19/gallon diesel, I made my way north.

It's 56 miles on a nice paved road from Furnace Creek to the Ubehebe Crater and then another 27 from there to the Racetrack.  That doesn't sound too bad right?  WRONG!

The road is really rough and made even rougher by all of the nasty weather the

park received this winter.  It took me over 3 hours to drive that 27 miles. 

The Ubehebe Crater (volcanic).  This is where the pavement ended and the rough road began.


Teakettle Junction is a well known landmark for obvious reasons. 

When you see that you're only 6 miles from the Racetrack, your spirits get lifted a bit until you realize that you've only been averaging about 6 mph, so you're still an hour away.



Once you get to the Racetrack, you'll see a sign that restricts camping to a certain area and that area is ANOTHER 6 miles away.  I finally made it to camp in the dark and I just tucked in for the night.


When I looked out my window the next morning, I saw this really cool overlanding rig.  Judging by the large Swiss flag on it's hood, I assumed that it was probably a Swiss rig that had been shipped overto the U.S.  I've seen a lot of similar rigs during my past visits to the park.




I'm finally here and seeing it for myself!


It takes years and even decades for these rocks to move this far.


Not all of the rocks move in straight lines.

The Racetrack's lakebed with the rock formation known as "The Grandstand" in the background.


After getting my fill of the Racetrack, I now had to make the long arduous journey back to the pavement.  It took me just as long to get out as it did for me to get in, but me and my camper made it in one piece.

If my camper was going to fail or break, it would have done so on the Racetrack road, but it held together like a champ.

Back in the park proper, I had a roadside lunch and checked out Stovepipe Wells.  Not much to see here but yet another overpriced gift shop and gas station.

I wanted to check out the little mining town of Skidoo, not just because it has a cool name, but also because it's the only place in the park where they hanged an outlaw AND they hung him twice.

Hootch Simpson was a barkeeper who was convicted of killing a man and was then sentenced to hang for the crime.  A few hours after he was hung, the town re-staged the hanging to appease the newspaper men who had wanted to cover the hanging.

Skidoo was originally named 23 Skidoo as it was a common saying at the time that meant "get out fast" or "scram."  The town dropped the 23 in the name after the post office refused to recognize the town beginning with a number.




After making another 1 1/2 drive along yet another really rough road, I finally came to the town of Skidoo.  Can you imagine how disappointed I was to see nothing left of the town but this field?

Anyway, the sun was sinking lower in the sky and it was time to find a place to camp for the night.


This a little stuffed porcupine I found on the side of the road years ago and when I can remember to do so, I take him along on my road trips.  Did you notice him earlier amongst all of the tea kettles at Teakettle Junction?

Death Valley used to have a lot more open dispersed camping areas, but the park service keeps restricting more and more of the park, so tonight I had to camp just outside of the park boundary and with rock throwing distance of the NV/CA state line.

Within 10 mins. of pulling off of the road, I had shaken my first margarita of the night.
Life's rough.


I awoke to an incredible sunrise.



Goldfield, NV
                                      
I met up with Curt, Jeff and Kathy and shortly after setting up camp, we took Curt's side by side out in search of something quaff.


The first little saloon we came across was closed.
Businesses in these little remote towns have very weird hours and it seems like they only open when they wan to.


We were actually glad the other bar was closed because the Santa Fe Club was one of the best little out of the way bars I've ever been into.  Established in 1905.


Having an ice cold beer on an original Brunswick bar that dated back to the early 
1900's is really, really cool.



Notice the ashtrays?  Almost everyone was smoking.  I don't care for cigarettes myself, but I love living
in a state where you can smoke if you want to.  The Santa Fe Club also had slot machines and allowed
dogs.  Take that Calilfornia! 





I've come to realize that every old "middle of nowhere" bar has at least one mannequin.  The
Santa Fe Club had three, but I only took a picture of this one because she's the most beautiful
mannequin I've ever seen...


 As we left the bar, we were approached by this old eccentric nut, who wanted to ramble on.  As
soon as I got the chance, I snuck away leaving Curt there to die alone.  Sorry buddy...



Goldfield had kind of a ghost town feel to it.




We explored Goldfield in Curt's side by side and stumbled on this art installation.


















It was time to leave Goldfield behind and start making my way back to Reno.



Tonopah, NV


We all stopped off at Tonopah Brewing Co. in, you guessed it, Tonopah, NV.



This is a very cool little brewery with a lot of beers on tap and some really good BBQ.


After a beer and some eats, I headed back to Reno and Curt, Jeff and Kathy went back to Goldfield for one more night.

My drive back was uneventful except for the high winds that buffeted me all the way back home.

This was a really fun trip and a successful maiden voyage for my new camper.  May there be many more destinations to come.